There is a hot pool, and a number of cold pools, plus a pair of steam rooms. Next to the salt pool, one leading outside to a waterfall, with billows of steam rising into the December sky-my favorite spot. Orienting yourself takes time it’s a spa you can get lost in. Lights are low, a practice applauded by Seneca: “Our ancestors did not think that one could have a hot bath except in darkness.” Blue pools outlined in flickering candles, 30-foot barrel-vaulted ceilings, large vases, archways, and all sorts of interesting architectural nooks. I gasped at my first glimpse of the flotarium, a large saltwater pool.
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